When folks hear that I’m in the wine industry they immediately assume, and rightly so, that I travel all over the world and taste an exorbitant amount of wine. Well, at least the latter half is true, mostly. In fact, with a new business undertaking, time for wine trips is fairly nonexistent.

Somló

There’s something about Hungary. I can’t put my finger on it but mystery surrounds this small country.  Although land-locked, Hungary has several bodies of water, the largest being Lake Balaton, with an area of 592 square km. Hungarians often refer to it as the Hungarian Sea.  Somló is a 2056 acre wine region in Veszprém county, in the North-West of Hungary.

Somló Hill is a dormant volcano – a so-called “witness mountain,” standing “witness” to times when a huge seabed was level with its top. During millions of years all else around it eroded, but the hill remained, protected by its hard volcanic rock-cap.  Due to this interesting geological aptitude, during the course of human history Somló became one of Europe’s most unique wine-regions – despite being the country’s smallest appellation.

Situated on top of the mountain are the ruins of an 11th century castle. Legend has it that the Benedictine convent, founded by Saint Stephen in the 11th century was later disbanded by the ecclesiastical court because the nuns were a little too fond of the fine local wines.

Fekete Olaszrizling 2011

The wines of Somló tend to be high in alcohol, high in acid, and brimming with smoky volcanic minerality. All wines are meant to be aged and can be aggressive when young. This is an all white grape appellation so winemaking is geared for structure and strength. After careful hand harvesting and sorting, spontaneous fermentation takes place in old 1200 liter Hungarian oak casks. Never completely sealed off from oxygen, all wines are aged for two years before bottling.

The Olaszrizling, also known as Graševina in Croatia, Welchsriesling in Austria, Riesling Italico in Italy, Laški Rizling in Slovenia tastes of power: primordial, tidal, primal. The bright, golden hue speaks of slight oxidation, evident on the palate. Reminds me a little of sherry, that faint sweet saline taste, with a hint of nutmeg, bitter almonds and the solera.  The taste is not for everyone, but it transports me to a place I’ve never been, to experience smells, tastes and sights I have yet to know. Exotic sounding? Oh yes. And that’s precisely the point.

There was a saying: “The king of wines grows in Tokaj and the wine of kings grows on Somló Hill.”

There is such proud history here. “The Grand Old Man” of Somló is Fekete Béla who lovingly tends to his small area of vines can be regularly seen out in his vineyards, talking to his grapes. To think that the man himself could have handled the very same bottle I’ll be discovering gives me goosebumps. At over 90 years of age, Fekete has decided that 2013 will be his last vintage. Stay tuned to importer Blue Danube Wine Company for more information.

So when exploring is in the air, pop a few Hungarian bottles and do a little visiting. Before too long, this little country will be big but hopefully still mysterious.

Egészségedre!
– To your health